Friday, December 20, 2013

Who is She?

Well, after just a week of being back in the US, I've felt the pinch of reality and my sense self wane in this familiar but strange land. Due to serious technical difficulties the last leg of Chile will have to remain as wild and free as you're willing to make it.

Cavancha Beach

Jellies Everywhere !!

Iquique: Clear waters, white sand, and dry brown mountains enclose the small but bustling beach town of Iquique. As the hot sun bears down on Cavancha Beach, it's the perfect day to sit and reflect on the end a pretty big personal accomplishment. Breaking only to take a dip in the pleasantly warm, jellyfish infested water and to eat at a small sandwich shop I have taken a liking to called Ola Tsunami Sandwich shop.


Leaving the Desert
San Pedro 

In eight months, I have learned about people, myself, and life. I've learned that the English language is fascinating and excruciatingly difficult all at the same time. I've learned that teaching is really fun, despite the difficulties that you will face. Lastly, I've learned that although it would be hard to live so far from family, my family in Chile-by which I mean my host family, friends, students, and teachers-would make it worth it.


Laguna Chaxa


My time in Chile, helped me remember something I have a tendency to forget. Life isn't what happens to you. Life is many things: complicated, painful, and colorful. However, life isn't a spectator sport, it's a participatory one. It's choices, consequences, and actions. Life is great, if you let it be. We are free to change and leave our demons behind. Hopefully, we remember the shadows in our lives so that they don't resurface anew. We are free to love or not love, and to laugh heartily. But it's up to you.

Laguna Miscanti

Cerro Santa Lucia

Santa Cristobal
Eight months, slowly thawed and finally got through the ice that had numbed my ability to be me. The warmth of the people and their love for me, healed me, and is preparing me to love others.

San Pedro de Atacama: It's frickin hot. The Atacama desert is beautiful, and true to description dry and arid. Volcanoes rise in the distance across the salt flats. Laguna Cejar gives us chance to cool off in the salty water, which lets you float without effort. Three types of flamingos reside in the salt flats in the reserva we visit: James, Chilean and Andino (andean). The Chilean flamingo, our guide and self-proclaimed Nicholas Cage of the Atacama says, is the easiest to find because it's always dancing cueca.



As I board an overnight bus to Santiago, the hours begin slipping away. I'm going 'home', whatever that word means. I worry. Will I remember who I am? Will I know where I belong? Will people know me?

My name is Jameisha Washington. I am a woman, daughter, sister, friend, athlete, teacher, doctor, comedian, punchline, cook, and so many things. In each season of life, I will always be me and the stories I live. 

 

Thanks for reading, miss all of you in Chile. Merry Christmas and happy holidays. Lots of love.



Monday, December 2, 2013

The First Fake Ending

Dearest Friends,

Thanks for all of your support so far, this is going to be rather short and bland as compared to my previous efforts. At the moment I'm writing you from the arid beach town of Iquique. After spending much time at the end of the world, I've headed to the northern regions of Chile. At the moment I still expect to be home December 11, 2013.

We arrived in Santiago, November 29, 2013 and as soon we walked into Balmaceda airport things seemed different. Adam, Pawel, and I were getting on a plane to Santiago. We made small talk, "How were your goodbyes? How exciting is this?!?!" Yeah. It's exciting. However, it feels a lot like I just left home, not like I'm going home. Walking around the sprawling city of Santiago, I felt like a zombie, this isn't my home and it's so freaking hot. Oh yeah, it's hot and we walked around the city like people stuck in a different time. Intermittent conversations helped pass the time, however it felt awfully like those of people forced together by time and space. The fact is, Coyhaique has stolen my heart. Reflecting on my experience with other volunteers made realize the magnitude of my decision to come to Chile. When I went to Uganda, I knew I was coming back and that I was only studying. Here, I was living. I am a member of the community.

Iquique: After a ridiculously long 26 hour bus ride, largely filled with landscapes vaguely reminiscent of California, we made it. It's pleasantly warm, and as we speak 10:30pm my time, I'm still comfortable in my sundress. Watching the waves crash of the ocean, makes me think of San Diego. After, cooking dinner, my plans of a vegetarian meal were interrupted, as an older gentleman offered me fresh caught and cooked fish. He's from Basque country and his accent is a little hard to understand. Well here's to the life of intrigue and circumstance. Let the first fake ending of this adventure live on. Pictures soon, I promise. I plan on

Lots of love,
Jameisha

Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Change of [ ]

I can't believe it. I really can't. It's been eight months. Eight months, since I cashed out, shed tears, skipped town, and left everything I know behind.

It's amazing how fast the heart can change. I went from simply liking, to obsessed, to slight/extreme dislike (winter), to infatuation. 

What could it be that causes me to feel like this? 

Do I have to leave? No, I should stay. People need me here. I need people here. Can I stay? No, I should leave. People need me there. I need people there.

Love. 

Outside of Manihuales, Chile

I love the fact that my face hurts often from smiling. I love that my students, rush to me for high fives, secret handshakes, and whatever else. I love that my host mom and can sit and talk about pretty much everything, despite my still limited vocabulary. I love empanadas, kuchen, and lentejas. I love that I have family all over the world, but it doesn't make it easier.

I've started packing, but I can't stay focused for too long. Something holds me back. I know that eight months is a very short time in comparison to the twenty-four years I've been around. However, here we are again, on the cusp of adventure and I feel like I'm leaving my family again.

_________
And now a couple letters:

Queridos Familia y Amigos de Chile,

Gracias por todo. Son asombrosos y generosas. Mi familia es más grande y pienso que estoy mejor porque yo les conozco. Espero que ser como la gente aquí con corazones grandes y todavía más grandes sonrisas. Queiro a recordar los sentimientos de felicidad y alegria que senti con mis amigos y familia chilena. Estoy diciendo nos vemos por un ratito. Gracias otra vez. No puedo creer que es el momento de dejar.

Con gran amor,
J

Dear Family and Friends in the USA,

Thanks so much for supporting me thus far. It's been an amazing journey, and it's hard to believe that it's ending. But let's be honest, this isn't the end, just another beginning. I'm coming home really soon. To be exact, I fly in December 11. As I transition back to living in the US, please be patient with me. I want to see you all and tell you everything. However, I ask for a little time to figure out what's happening. But on a side note, I will be in need of a job soon, so if you know anyone who's hiring, feel free to drop a line.

With Love,
J

Nos vemos Pronto Chile (See you Soon, Chile)


Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Going Sola

 On Monday, I went to Puerto Ibanez (1.5 hours south) to work with the kids in the more rural part of our region. I judged a Spelling Bee and Singing Festival. Here's what happened:

After lunch I walked into Aonikenk's auditorium and felt the eyes of the excited students watching my every step. Just audible, a student says,"Hello."

Detour.

"Well, hello everyone. How are you today?" I reply.

A wave of,"I'm fine" follows. Then we learn each others names and sing the alphabet. "Tia, tia, que canciones tu sabes de California?! Auntie/auntie, what songs do you know from California?!" asked one little boy.

"Hmm. There are so many! Do you know Hotel California?" Strike one. "California girls?" Strike two. "Do you know Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes?" Winner winner chicken dinner.

So in the unusually warm weather for Patagonia, together we sing and do the motions to Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes. Their smiles and the laughter are things that make it worth it. Maybe I should be working with Basico/Elementary Age.

Puerto Ibanez, Chile

Friday, was yet another day of traveling but this time in the other direction to Puerto Cisnes (2-3 hours north). Here, Pawel and I served as MC's for the first Annual Singing in the Rain Festival. A clever name, as Puerto Cisnes is a pretty rainy place. I've never been an MC, nor do I think I have amazing stage presence. But alas, years of learning how to laugh at myself, karaoke nights, REJ duties, and Model United Nations have all paid off. The event was a huge success, the director told me I made it look easy (aw shucks), and I ran into a few students I know from Winter Camp.

Saturday, the sun was out early and the sky was nearly cloud free. Today's is going to be a great day I thought. The plan: revisit Queulat, finally see Ventisquero Colgante, and hitchhike back to Coyhaique.
We hiked 3-4 mi. into Queulat, to go hiking in Queulat. Warm up?

Queulat Round 2
As Pawel and I went our separate ways—me, 30 minutes farther into Queulat, him, off into the Enchanted Forest—the adventure began.

Cool, ok. It'll be nice to be alone right? Yeah, definitely!...said no one ever. Pretty much all of our time as singles is spent alone or tagging along with our married or relationship-ped counterparts. We are indeed social creatures and like company.

Yet, I feel similarly to my friend Ashlee, and am each day coming to the same epiphany. Mainly, that in a society that is eagerly clinging to connectedness in social media and very community-centered, that it's ok, if not necessary to be comfortable alone. Read what Ashlee has to say here: I Have A Feeling This Is Going to be the Best Year Ever.

After a grueling hour or so, I made it to the mirador/viewpoint, sweat pouring from the weight of my pack. I set my pack on the bench and sat quietly in front of the famous Ventisquero Colgante. Wow, this is amazing. I rested, eyes closed so as to enjoy the chirping of the birds and sound of rushing waters. When I reopened my eyes, a little bird had hopped next to me and everything was so peaceful. I didn't have to rush off, talk to anyone, or care about anything I didn't want to. And all that time I didn't feel lonely.

Ventisquero Colgante, Queulat

Surprise yourself by being alone, intentionally. It's might be weird or challenging at first, but I find it very rewarding. For example, you can practice different accents without being made fun of.

Speaking of surprising today I received a Halloween card from Sarah Beene! Best way to start a rainy Tuesday, and also a timely reminder that I'm never alone, not even at "el fin del mundo/the end of the world." Thanks Sarah!

Just witching you a happy Halloween!- Sarah

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Milwaukee Blue and Something Journey Said

First off, a quick shout out to all of you, where ever you are, for reading these posts. You guys are great and so important to me. Also, thanks everyone for asking me questions that help me process and appreciate my experiences in Chile and elsewhere.

Puerto Cisnes, Chile

After spending fours days away from internet, alarm clocks, and obligations I am happy to be home, although probably more exhausted than before. In four days, we traversed curvy unpaved roads, forests, beaches, rivers, glaciers, and lakes a plenty. The serene countryside was teeming with new life and as testament calves and lambs scamper around in the open pastures.

If you don't know already, then you probably should know now that one of my favorite musicians is City and Colour. I have become ever more aware of this as the crew inserted several references and jokes to remind me of my not-so-secret obsession.

I spent the weekend with three friends that I know from living in Coyhaique and teaching English. There's not that many young teachers and even less who are young and teach English. So anyways the group consisted of two boys, El Jefe/Boss Man and Nip the Sleepnificent, and two girls, Sweet Mass and yours truly JJ the jet/Mowgli/Jameish!/Washington. I'm pretty sure a splendid time was had by all, even though at times there was an excess of drama, which I take responsibility for. Basically, hopping out of the car with no money, no phone, no meeting spot, and no layers wasn't my most brilliant idea to date.

Puyuhaupi, Chile

The weekend started with an overnight drive to Puerto Cisnes. After rolling into town and checking out the waterfront, we began asking around for places to camp. Once this was accomplished we listened to music and shared stories until eventually turning in for the night. On awaking, I couldn't help but be excited, this weekend's going to be great. I've been trying to get to Puerto Cisnes, since June, however I heard that travel would be difficult then because of rain, etc. Finally, we made it.

Skipping ahead after a quick breakfast and refueling in Puyuhaupi, we headed for our main destination. Raul Marin Balmaceda which is part of the Palena-Queulat Basin and faces the Pacific. I know I've said it before, but I have to say it again. I love being near the ocean and for that matter large bodies of water, they always remind me of home. It was the perfect time to think and just be as we were the only people around in the small town. That night once with our host Miriam was amazing. She told us how until a few years ago no one in RMB had cell phones and that to this day there's no full time doctor. Talk about rural.

Bonfire at the Beach: Sweet Mass and I


A bonfire on the beach complete with dancing to grooves anyone who grew up in the 90's should appreciate (the Macarena!) was a great way to wrap up our short time in RMB. It was during this glorious dance party that I played a song by City and Colour. Earlier I was telling Sweet Mass that she might like his music. El Jefe, took this juicy nugget of information and threw it in almost every conversation. All in good fun, the jokes continued because El Jefe talks about Milwaukee as much as I talk about City and Colour. His fascination, Milwaukee's the country, right? As we explained that Milwaukee was geographically and demographically pretty far from what we deem country, his love for this industrious town remains unshaken.

Raul Marin Balmaceda


 We decided to leave early, so that we could head back visit some hot springs, and still spend a full day visit Queulat National park. Queulat has been on my mind since I came across it on the map, and our beautiful rain hike did not disappoint. When people think of Patagonia, they think Torres Del Paine. I'm sure Torres del Paine is amazing, but this region is just as beautiful. The relatively small amount of human traffic makes gives you a chance to take your time and admire the beauty. The rush of the rivers, misty rain, and wind welcome kindred spirits to get lost. At the end of the The Encanted Forest Trail was the following:

Glaciers

Melting snow plummets and refreezes, what?

Checking out the Greenery
 Don't Stop Believing
As much as I'm loving the adventures and geographical wonders of Chile, the highlights of the past few weeks have been more personal. As I talked to el Jefe prior to the trip, he asked a rather simple question: Why would you believe in God? Point blank, I really didn't know what to say to him. Although, I really don't know if it would've mattered because he also said that believing in God was like believing in unicorns.

Believing in something is hard to do, probably because it requires us to rely on something outside of ourselves and leaves us pretty vulnerable. Often undefined variables or traditions are central to beliefs. Now, I think I'm beginning to understand my own struggles and those of many around me. The apparent success of individual effort, the lack of evidence, or on occasion the blatant failure of traditions work to foster skepticism and doubt.

But believing isn't a trait of the strictly spiritual. Human life depends on believing. Languages, math, and science all require believing. Lesslie Newbigin says, "One does not learn anything except by believing something, and -- conversely -- if one doubts everything one learns nothing. On the other hand, believing everything uncritically is the road to disaster. The faculty of doubt is essential. But as I have argued, rational doubt always rests on faith and not vice versa. The relationship between the two cannot be reversed." Think about Pythagorean's theorem. For some of you rocket scientist types it might've have been easy, but in my mind it was not. Yet I trusted Mr. G that the hypotenuse would equal the square root of the sum of the adjacent (squared) and opposite (squared) sides. I didn't know why it worked but it did.

It's hard to get on board with something, when there's no guarantee, but it's essential to our learning. The fact that we can communicate and figure out complex systems of understanding like geometry, proves that we can all do it. Doubt also has it's place, but to doubt something we have to at least consider that it can be true. In closing as Journey once said, "Don't stop believing, hold on to that feeling".

Well that's all for today. Til next time, stay pensive my friends.

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

If Everyday Was Halloween

Well, it's that time of the year again. When ghouls and goblins, princesses, super heroes and other candy fiends take the streets in search of haunt, horrors, and of course that good old sugary goodness. As you might know, I'm currently living in Chile. Although, Chile is starting to embrace Halloween more, and there is candy at the super market, but not to the extent of the US. It's really pretty relaxing to be somewhere Halloween isn't that big a deal. Yes, parts of me are pretty sad, because I really would like to carve a pumpkin, make a costume, and hang with friends and family. But another part of me is grateful, if not relieved. I'm happy to be farther away from the temptation of buying tons of 'things'.

Spring Sing '11
Although we get the day off, it's not because of Halloween. It's for November 1st, All Saints' Day. Yet another 4-day weekend, teaching is awesome! Especially now that it's spring.

It's often said that Halloween is the one day you can dress up in whatever you want. No one can judge you or say anything about it. As I was walking to school, I thought about what I could dress up as or be for Halloween. Well I have this and I have that, I said to myself. No that just won't do. Then I thought, what if I were me for Halloween? If I'm being honest I've worn masks and disguises pretty much every day of my life. Many days it's sarcasm, some times it's confidence, and every now and then it's just me.



What if I was someone with very really insecurities? What if I was the Jameisha Washington who looks in the mirror and sees so many problems? What if I was the Jameisha Washington who, when told by her Chilean host mom, "Eres un poco mas gordita. You've gained some weight", became offended and sad? Since that day, I have talked and laughed about it with my host mom. We even talked about how culture really dictates what's beautiful, and how important it is for parents, teachers, and role models to help youth appreciate more than just physical beauty. What if instead of pretending to be happy, I told people I'm hurting?

This is not a bash on Halloween. I like Halloween and hope you all have the best Halloween ever with family, friends, and complete strangers. As for me though, I'm just going to be me and accept the fact that even though I'm not perfect, I'm perfectly me. Here's to a more honest life.

Happy Halloween!!! Be safe everyone. As for me, this weekend I plan on jumping into the ocean. Wish me luck, it's going to be freezing! Catch you on the flip side.

So going to Robot Food in this photo!


If human beings had genuine courage, they'd wear the costumes every day of the year, not just on Halloween. -Doug Coupland

Friday, October 18, 2013

Stand Up with Radioface

Well dear friends, it seems that ever since September 18, Independence day, the weather has been phenomenal. There are tulips and daffodils everywhere, and we got up into the high 60's F this week. My kids have been relatively tame, so I'm a little nervous that things are going to get crazy in the next few weeks. Only time will tell though. I'd rather focus on the incredible amount of laughter and smiles my crazy kids induce.

There was a parade

3 Things that I thought were funny that I was also a little ashamed to post earlier:
  1. Every time I wave at a student and they don't acknowledge my existence, a little part of me dies.
  2. I may have told my students that USA national dance is the "Chicken Dance", and they may have believed me, had I not started laughing as I did the dance.
  3. My English is getting worse and my Spanish is not improving. For example, I couldn't remember if days of the week were always capitalized in English. Weird. As for Spanish, see below.
Spring flowers

Stand Up
As classes progressed Thursday, I was unsure how the day was going to shake out. I woke up late, after doing a long swim workout and lesson planning late into the night. Completely, forgetting about a morning commitment until receiving a phone call. In turn, I left the house with some pretty ratchet hair and without my soccer gear.

Class one flew by. So far so good. After lunch, the students watched a video called The Origin of Job Interviews from BBC's Armstrong and Miller show.

As we approached the final hour, the day seemed even warmer, and the students were in a good mood. Flies circled overhead in the warm air, and some students were standing to swat at them. I asked them to sit down. They pointed and pleaded about the flies, to which I said, "Yes, I noticed. You guys really need to take a shower." Class proceeds to fall into uncontrollable laughter. They started telling me to take a shower. One student said the flies were there before they arrived so it couldn't be them. I proclaimed, "Yes, same for me." The other teachers happened to be standing, backs turned to me, so I jokingly threw my eyes and thumb in the direction of my teachers. Once again the kids began laughing very heartily.

We moved to the computer lab to work on some pronunciation. (Side note: This is one of the classes I feel really connected to and it has a number of really spirited kids. However, our closeness also makes it hard to keep them in line.) As we went through foods we came to bell pepper. Once we got the bell part down, a handful of my students began confidently mocking the repetition of the word. "Bell pepper," I would say. "Bell peppaa!!" they responded.

Some of my bell peppas
Being the saucy character that I can be, I turned and said, "Alright, listen up! I know this might seems strange but it's important! How would you feel if I walked up to you and said 'ho-la co-mo es-tas a-mi-go'," imagine very exaggerated gringo voice. Another uproar, not a single student kept a straight face, if not because of my ridiculousness, then because of the incredulousness of what was happening. At the end, the game I had went really well and I survived yet another day as a teacher.

 With my comedy career picking up steam, I decided to take to the airways. It just so happens that the appointment I was late to, was making an ad on the radio. The following video is the audio of the ad that will be playing around Coyhaique. PS I sound like a serious gringo, time to go practice Spanish...

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

How to Ace Life

Why yes, that is a volcano behind me.
Although I wouldn't call myself an avid test taker, one thing I do like about tests is that there is some finality. It's either you passed or you didn't. Skating along the real question of whether testing is necessary, I do think testing has some benefits. It's a great way to sample students grasp of a subject. However, at the same time mastering a concept in a controlled static situation doesn't mean that much in a dynamic world. Both fortunately and unfortunately, life is not a test. There is no equation that can be memorized, nor formula that will work for everybody. Ok, have a good life, I'm out!

Hiking solo through a foot of snow in shorts and climbing trees.
Just joking! There's more, yay! In a time where checklisting, bucketlisting, and "how to..."'s are everywhere, it is easy to be overwhelmed or underwhelmed. As much as I try to resist, I find myself reading them and comparing my life to both the list and to the people I want to be like. Is it any wonder so many of us feel confused or unsatisfied? I did everything just right, so why isn't everything falling together like a Disney movie? Why am I single? Why am I working a job with no prospect? Where are my results?

So, there's still heaps of snow...

Last week was a pretty dramatic return to reality. After a few weeks of vacation, I returned to the classroom with renewed energy and expectations. I thought if I put together dynamite presentations, gave out stickers, and treated students with respect; that my students would love English class and be respectful. Of course this was not the case. My second lesson went horribly awry, and what's more is I didn't know what to do about it.

You could say I tried a wrong solution. After a few minutes of trying to solve the problem, I threw my arms across my chest in defeat,  and turned puppy-eyed to my teacher for help. Now after sleeping on it, brainstorming, and retrieving my brain from my wonderful but raucous teenagers I'm ready to get back at it.

Snow-capped Mountains
But the point is this: We need to get out of this idea that there is a formula for everything. Being in your 20's isn't a test, it's a blessing. It might be a hot mess right now, but it's your hot mess. Reading everything that worked for everyone else and emulating such in our own lives might not yield the same results. And while enjoyable, bucketlisting isn't necessarily a habit we should live by. Goals are great, but we should remember why we made them in the first place and not limit ourselves from reaching our potential. Thinking about life as a test takes away the freedom and dimensionality that makes it all worth while. Everyday, situation, job, and conflict is different. We need to feel free to struggle and navigate life's ambiguity with confidence. Life goes on plan or no plan, but will you?

Stamped in country 07/29/2013, received 10/08/13. Buen trabajo Correos Chile...


The best way to prepare for life is to begin to live.-Elbert Hubbard

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Pensiamentos de la Primavera

Heavy fog covers Rio Calle-Calle, making it nearly impossible to distinguish water surface from air. A floating restaurant rocks gently from the wakes, its Coca-Cola sign prominent and recognizable anywhere. Birds chirp, daring any nearby residents to continue to sleep. There's a vague lingering smell of seafood as we dash past the riverfront marketplace.Welcome to Valdivia. Wake up, it's primavera!



Lighthouse and Cannons- Fuerte Niebla

Torreón El Canelo restored in the 1850s- Valdivia

Jardin Botanico-Universidad Austral de Chile, Valdivia

Rio Cau-Cau, Valdivia


Mirador Fuerte Niebla

Rio Calle-Calle

***

Pale pink stretches across the horizon. Active snow-capped volcanoes seem harmless from a distance during twilight. Grassy pastures stretch endlessly, broken only by naked trees. Lambs and calves hover close to their mothers. It's spring. Good afternoon from Puerto Octay an old port on the banks of Lake Llanquihue. Pictures soon.

***

Back to school again. After a rather restless sleep, I finally woke up around 8:30am. Fresh from two and half weeks free, I'm surprised at how fast I'm falling back into the swing of things. Honestly, I had very mixed feelings about returning to Coyhaique and teaching. Seeing other places and feeling free tempted me to not come back. Even as I walked back into the school, there was this feeling of dread. My boss was there to review me and while working with one of the classes I'm least familiar with, of course. I walked into the teachers room and received such warm greetings and un montón de besos that I thought my heart might burst. Luckily, it did not, but everything else melted away. Class was still rough and I am pretty upset at the lack of respect the students showed. But nothing can take this feeling away. 

Nothing can take what I feel for this place either. Now as the trees stand blooming white and pink blossoms, I'm reminded how short my time is here. "You'll come back, right?" my host-sister Karla asked a few days back, "one day when we're all older and have hijos y hijas." We laughed and enjoyed the sweet sunshine. My eyes are heavy with the rain that was withheld from Valdivia aka Val-lluvia. Nothing can take away the spontaneous invitations a tomar un te y dulcita. Feeling grateful, feeling humbled, feeling happily sad.

La Karlita y Gabo



Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Una Semana En Paraiso (A Week in Paradise)

Disclaimer: This post is lengthy

After traveling through a handful of cities in the lovely country of Ecuador, I'm back home in Coyhaique for just a few days. Just enough time to do a bit of laundry and lounging before I head out on yet another trip. Ecuador in a glimpse, was absolutely amazing. Before setting off I was a little bit nervous to be going sola, but that anxiety was put to bed very fast. One week in Ecuador, left me with new stories and friends, and a yearning to go know more of this small country.

Cascada Pailon del Diablo, Baños, Ecuador

The Cliff Notes Version of What Happened

Highlights:
  1. Getting sunburned because my body is no longer used to intense amounts of sunshine.
  2. Comedian talking about farts. In Spanish, of course! Hilarious, I couldn't stop laughing.
  3. Bonding with fellow travelers.
  4. Being a head taller than almost everyone. I'm 5'4 people, this is a big deal.
  5. Marcelo, at Hostel Transylvania. So helpful and nice! Made my first few days in Ecuador very nice!
  6. Pancakes, Pizza, Falafel, Fresh fish, and Ecuadorian food.
  7. Swinging over a 50 ft. outlook.
  8. Not having a plan.
  9. Having the 'plan' change.
  10. Being.
Day 1: Arrival
As I walked off the plane in Guayaquil, warm humid air and the purple night sky greeted me. Already, I couldn't help feeling completely elated with my decision. After taking an overnight bus 287 km northeast, I watched the sky lighten to reveal the lush green mountains of the Andean highlands. I made my way to the quaint Hostel Transylvania, where I'd be staying, brushed my teeth and attempted to take a nap. While trying to fall asleep, I heard bells toll in the distance, and other noises of a waking town. Seeing that sleep was not going to happen, I left to explore. First stop, 7 AM mass.
Cascada de la Virgen
I set out towards the direction from which the ringing came, and in five minutes was in front of the Basilica de Agua Santa. I slipped in and occupied a vacant row at the back, so as to not to interrupt or be seen wearing zebra striped sandals and my well worn jeans and sports sweater. Of course, within fifteen minutes I was in the middle of the row, surrounded by people whom I was nearly a head taller than. I can't remember what the priest was talking about, but I do remember him encouraging the congregation to join in singing what I believe is equivalent to 'This is the Day'. As he led the song, although he was a bit off key, and the slightly metallic and automated sound of recorded background music was just audible, I listened and sang along. My favorite part was the short time for fellowship. All around me, people were eager to greet old friends and equally ecstatic to welcome visitors.

After having breakfast at the hostel, I continued exploring and saw the waterfall of the Virgin (pictured above). Eventually, I decided I should probably start figuring what I want to do in Banos. By one o' clock, I was set to go rafting down the Pastazo River with a group leaving at 2:30.

Team Mas o Menos (Left to right): Moritz, Me, Peter, Keno
Rafting: We spent a few hours playing in the water and paddling through class III rapids, and later sat down to enjoy a cup of hot chocolate and empanadas together. In between rapids my eyes were glued to the scenery, green upon green stretching for miles. While nearly, all of us said rafting was fun, I think we were all hoping to be a little more challenged. The most interesting part of the trip was definitely the conversations we had. As we drifted from topic to topic, more than once they terminated with conspiracy theory. Although, I studied political science and believe governments have caused a lot of ill, I'm quite skeptical of the idea that everything is a part of some big government scheme, but that's probably what Big Brother wants me to believe.


Day 2: Mountain Biking
As I sat waiting for the food, I made conversation with a fellow backpacker. I asked how long he'd been in Banos, other fluff conversation. In turn, he asked the same and what I've done so far. As I talked about rafting I mentioned having gone rafting in Uganda, which led to more questions. Eventually, exchanging stories about our experiences we went off to our separate adventures.

We left on the road towards Puyo around 10 am in a light rain. Pretty suddenly we were ducking into a small restaurant just outside of town as the rain picked up to full strength. More food. Soon we moved on with a bigger group to see one of the most impressive waterfalls I've ever seen. Pailon del Diablo (The Devil Cauldron/Bowl). The sound of crashing water was audible well before we reached the fall. On the way, I stopped to marvel at flowers, trees, and vines shrouded in mists and clouds. Standing next to the waterfall you feel a wind tunnel effect that just adds to the grandeur.

Don't remember the name
Around 5 pm, many waterfalls later we were completely drenched and caught a truck back to town. I grabbed dinner with a girl named Ela, from my hostel and while we waited for our food we watched the US Open. Afterwards we went quickly back to the hostel and with two more people headed to the hot springs. Although, the water looked pretty gross, it was nice to relax and chat with fellow travelers and residents of Banos.

Day 3: Puyo Jungle Tour
The jungle tour was pretty standard tourism stuff, but not without it's highligts:

Lunch Time Date
Monkey Business
Beautiful Parrots
Swimming in waterfalls
and this



Day 4: Riobamba
We arrived in Riobamba before 11am, and headed straight for the train station to buy tickets for Nariz Del Diablo. Unfortunately, we found out that the 3pm trains don't run during the low season. This is one of those moments I'm so grateful for, remembering that life goes on even when the plan cannot. Although, we were stuck Riobamba, which also happens to be the most misleading name possible, not all was lost. I'm pretty sure it's still one of the least exciting towns I've ever been in, ever, but hey  it wasn't all bad, the sun was out and I gladly welcomed the warmth. I never realized how much I loved sunshine, until I moved to Coyhaique.

While talking on the phone, to my surprise I ran into someone I recognized from Banos, and after a quick greeting we planned to chat after I was off the phone. Harry, whom I had met at breakfast a few days back, also took a bus to Riobamba that day. He was debating taking the train as well. Later on, Harry, Roni, Robert (another traveler), and I grabbed dinner. Talk about fun! An Israeli Jew, non-practicing Catholic German, another German, and myself. We talked about everything even things normally off limits at the dinner table: politics, religion, current issues like Syria among other things without anyone storming off or losing it. It was nice to discuss serious problems with people with different perspectives and to have company in general.

Day 5: Famous Nariz Del Diablo Train
We set out the next day, Roni, Harry and I, and the weather that morning was glorious. Another warm sunny day, perfect for a train ride. Another fun day was ahead. The train was very relaxing and afforded us vistas of a different landscape. I was reminded of my home town San Diego as we reached the bottom of the Nose and stopped in the town Sibambe. The train route took us past cacti, a sulfur river, and yellowy brown mountains.
Volcano Chimbarozo
Leaving from Alausi Station
Starting the Switchback
Train with Nariz del Diablo (behind)

The Nose from the Bottom
Most Ecuadorians take pride in their beautiful landscape

Day 6: Cuenca and Cajas National Park
Cuenca is definitely the most vibrant place I visited in Ecuador in terms of night life and entertainment. The streets were lined with high-end dining restaurants, karaoke bars, and used bookstores! Apparently, it's a new destination for expats from the US. It was almost a little too nice after spending time walking through uninhabited rainforests and highlands of Central Ecuador. After happily settling into a hostel the night before, I wandered aimlessly with Harry, looking for somewhere to have dinner. Finally, we landed in a hole in the wall shop, where I proceeded to make a simple order very complicated.

New Cathedral in Cuenca
 On my last day, in paradise, I set out early and caught a bus to Cajas National Park. I spent my time hiking Sendero San Luis, which from the bottom didn't look all too hard. On the way up, I started breathing really heavily, and thought I'm more out of shape than I thought. Eventually, I reached the peak and rested soaking in the silence. Only after finding the way down did I realize that I was probably suffering from altitude sickness. Oops. Nothing like a day in nature. If you're into birdwatching, llama watching, or peaceful walks in solitude Cajas wait no longer.


At the top
Furry Cactus with flowers or Paramo Herbaceo


I really wish I had more time in Ecuador. I would've enjoyed learning more about the people and culture. However, for now I'm just happy. Til we meet again, stay well Ecuador...