Una Semana En Paraiso (A Week in Paradise)

Disclaimer: This post is lengthy

After traveling through a handful of cities in the lovely country of Ecuador, I'm back home in Coyhaique for just a few days. Just enough time to do a bit of laundry and lounging before I head out on yet another trip. Ecuador in a glimpse, was absolutely amazing. Before setting off I was a little bit nervous to be going sola, but that anxiety was put to bed very fast. One week in Ecuador, left me with new stories and friends, and a yearning to go know more of this small country.

Cascada Pailon del Diablo, Baños, Ecuador

The Cliff Notes Version of What Happened

Highlights:

1. Getting sunburned because my body is no longer used to intense amounts of sunshine.
2. Comedian talking about farts. In Spanish, of course! Hilarious, I couldn't stop laughing.
3. Bonding with fellow travelers.
4. Being a head taller than almost everyone. I'm 5'4 people, this is a big deal.
5. Marcelo, at Hostel Transylvania. So helpful and nice! Made my first few days in Ecuador very nice!
6. Pancakes, Pizza, Falafel, Fresh fish, and Ecuadorian food.
7. Swinging over a 50 ft. outlook.
8. Not having a plan.
9. Having the 'plan' change.
10. Being.

Day 1: Arrival
As I walked off the plane in Guayaquil, warm humid air and the purple night sky greeted me. Already, I couldn't help feeling completely elated with my decision. After taking an overnight bus 287 km northeast, I watched the sky lighten to reveal the lush green mountains of the Andean highlands. I made my way to the quaint Hostel Transylvania, where I'd be staying, brushed my teeth and attempted to take a nap. While trying to fall asleep, I heard bells toll in the distance, and other noises of a waking town. Seeing that sleep was not going to happen, I left to explore. First stop, 7 AM mass.

Cascada de la Virgen

I set out towards the direction from which the ringing came, and in five minutes was in front of the Basilica de Agua Santa. I slipped in and occupied a vacant row at the back, so as to not to interrupt or be seen wearing zebra striped sandals and my well worn jeans and sports sweater. Of course, within fifteen minutes I was in the middle of the row, surrounded by people whom I was nearly a head taller than. I can't remember what the priest was talking about, but I do remember him encouraging the congregation to join in singing what I believe is equivalent to 'This is the Day'. As he led the song, although he was a bit off key, and the slightly metallic and automated sound of recorded background music was just audible, I listened and sang along. My favorite part was the short time for fellowship. All around me, people were eager to greet old friends and equally ecstatic to welcome visitors.

After having breakfast at the hostel, I continued exploring and saw the waterfall of the Virgin (pictured above). Eventually, I decided I should probably start figuring what I want to do in Banos. By one o' clock, I was set to go rafting down the Pastazo River with a group leaving at 2:30.

Team Mas o Menos (Left to right): Moritz, Me, Peter, Keno

Rafting: We spent a few hours playing in the water and paddling through class III rapids, and later sat down to enjoy a cup of hot chocolate and empanadas together. In between rapids my eyes were glued to the scenery, green upon green stretching for miles. While nearly, all of us said rafting was fun, I think we were all hoping to be a little more challenged. The most interesting part of the trip was definitely the conversations we had. As we drifted from topic to topic, more than once they terminated with conspiracy theory. Although, I studied political science and believe governments have caused a lot of ill, I'm quite skeptical of the idea that everything is a part of some big government scheme, but that's probably what Big Brother wants me to believe.

Day 2: Mountain Biking
As I sat waiting for the food, I made conversation with a fellow backpacker. I asked how long he'd been in Banos, other fluff conversation. In turn, he asked the same and what I've done so far. As I talked about rafting I mentioned having gone rafting in Uganda, which led to more questions. Eventually, exchanging stories about our experiences we went off to our separate adventures.

We left on the road towards Puyo around 10 am in a light rain. Pretty suddenly we were ducking into a small restaurant just outside of town as the rain picked up to full strength. More food. Soon we moved on with a bigger group to see one of the most impressive waterfalls I've ever seen. Pailon del Diablo (The Devil Cauldron/Bowl). The sound of crashing water was audible well before we reached the fall. On the way, I stopped to marvel at flowers, trees, and vines shrouded in mists and clouds. Standing next to the waterfall you feel a wind tunnel effect that just adds to the grandeur.

Don't remember the name

Around 5 pm, many waterfalls later we were completely drenched and caught a truck back to town. I grabbed dinner with a girl named Ela, from my hostel and while we waited for our food we watched the US Open. Afterwards we went quickly back to the hostel and with two more people headed to the hot springs. Although, the water looked pretty gross, it was nice to relax and chat with fellow travelers and residents of Banos.

Day 3: Puyo Jungle Tour
The jungle tour was pretty standard tourism stuff, but not without it's highligts:

Lunch Time Date

Monkey Business

Beautiful Parrots

Swimming in waterfalls

and this

Day 4: Riobamba
We arrived in Riobamba before 11am, and headed straight for the train station to buy tickets for Nariz Del Diablo. Unfortunately, we found out that the 3pm trains don't run during the low season. This is one of those moments I'm so grateful for, remembering that life goes on even when the plan cannot. Although, we were stuck Riobamba, which also happens to be the most misleading name possible, not all was lost. I'm pretty sure it's still one of the least exciting towns I've ever been in, ever, but hey  it wasn't all bad, the sun was out and I gladly welcomed the warmth. I never realized how much I loved sunshine, until I moved to Coyhaique.

While talking on the phone, to my surprise I ran into someone I recognized from Banos, and after a quick greeting we planned to chat after I was off the phone. Harry, whom I had met at breakfast a few days back, also took a bus to Riobamba that day. He was debating taking the train as well. Later on, Harry, Roni, Robert (another traveler), and I grabbed dinner. Talk about fun! An Israeli Jew, non-practicing Catholic German, another German, and myself. We talked about everything even things normally off limits at the dinner table: politics, religion, current issues like Syria among other things without anyone storming off or losing it. It was nice to discuss serious problems with people with different perspectives and to have company in general.

Day 5: Famous Nariz Del Diablo Train
We set out the next day, Roni, Harry and I, and the weather that morning was glorious. Another warm sunny day, perfect for a train ride. Another fun day was ahead. The train was very relaxing and afforded us vistas of a different landscape. I was reminded of my home town San Diego as we reached the bottom of the Nose and stopped in the town Sibambe. The train route took us past cacti, a sulfur river, and yellowy brown mountains.

Volcano Chimbarozo

Leaving from Alausi Station

Starting the Switchback

Train with Nariz del Diablo (behind)

The Nose from the Bottom

Most Ecuadorians take pride in their beautiful landscape

Day 6: Cuenca and Cajas National Park
Cuenca is definitely the most vibrant place I visited in Ecuador in terms of night life and entertainment. The streets were lined with high-end dining restaurants, karaoke bars, and used bookstores! Apparently, it's a new destination for expats from the US. It was almost a little too nice after spending time walking through uninhabited rainforests and highlands of Central Ecuador. After happily settling into a hostel the night before, I wandered aimlessly with Harry, looking for somewhere to have dinner. Finally, we landed in a hole in the wall shop, where I proceeded to make a simple order very complicated.

New Cathedral in Cuenca

 On my last day, in paradise, I set out early and caught a bus to Cajas National Park. I spent my time hiking Sendero San Luis, which from the bottom didn't look all too hard. On the way up, I started breathing really heavily, and thought I'm more out of shape than I thought. Eventually, I reached the peak and rested soaking in the silence. Only after finding the way down did I realize that I was probably suffering from altitude sickness. Oops. Nothing like a day in nature. If you're into birdwatching, llama watching, or peaceful walks in solitude Cajas wait no longer.

At the top

Furry Cactus with flowers or Paramo Herbaceo

I really wish I had more time in Ecuador. I would've enjoyed learning more about the people and culture. However, for now I'm just happy. Til we meet again, stay well Ecuador...